1. Are Goodsell Amplifiers Class A?
By many popular definitions, yes. By any technically accurate definition, no. The vast majority, and I mean VAST MAJORITY of push-pull guitar amps are clas AB. Even the ones you always thought were class A. The only true class A amps most of us have actually experienced are single-ended, usually single output tube amps under 10 watts. This would include the Goodsell 5 and Super 7, and most of the popular single-digit models offered by most other makers. The Epiphone Valve Jr. is a common class-A single-ended amp. So what about those popular definitions? Goodsell amps are cathode-biased, and cathode-biased amplifiers typically run closer to class-A than fixed-bias in that the power tubes' idle current draw can be almost as high as their current at full signal. (class-A amps draw the same high current all the time). Another quasi-class-A ingredient is the lack of a negative feedback loop, where a small amount of the speaker signal is sent back to an earlier stage, usually the phase inverter, for the purpose of stabilizing the signal and inhibiting oscillation, which can sometimes be a problem in the later, more gain-y stages of the signal path. You see this more often, but not exclusively, on fixed-bias amps, and typically is manipulated by the "presence" control. None of the Goodsell models have this feedback loop, but this still doesn't count as being class-A. If you really want an in-depth technical explanation on this topic, I suggest you Google the Randall Aiken papers on the subject, which he has generously posted on-line; he's a much smarter guy than me, and has a gift for making even the densest material somehow digestible. I'll put a link here if/when I get Randall's permission, but it is relatively easy to find.
2. What does cathode-biased mean?
It means there is never anything to adjust when you replace the power tubes. It is a choice of output topology for many "boutique" builders used on many lower-powered amps because of the way it sounds. Most of the classic Fender and Marshall amps used fixed-bias because higher output ratings were available, and back in the day it was all about wattage. Still is, for big rigs...
3. What kind of tubes do you recommend?
I recommend the tubes that I ship the amps with - Electro Harmonix. The Black Dog 50 uses JJ E34L power tubes, but virtually all other power and pre-amp tubes are EH. You can spend big money on NOS tubes from the USA and/or Western Europe, and they will last longer and be more reliable, but in terms of sound quality the tiny margin of improvement is hardly worth the expense. The EH tubes that you get with your new Goodsell amps are hand-selected, tested, and matched right here in the amp shop.
4. What about the rectifier?
Each Goodsell model has a rectifier specifically chosen for it's application. The earlier Super 17s used many different 5-volt rectifier tubes before settling on the Sovtek 5V4 for the sake of reliability. The EH 5U4, always used in the custom 33 series, would also work in the earlier 17s but the bulb is way bigger than it needs to be. The Super 17 MkIII was designed from the get-go with a solid-state rectifier for size and weight considerations, and there is not a tube option. Don't worry - there was no tone sacrifice and it has been our best-selling model since it's introduction more than two years ago. The current Super 17 head, built on the same chassis as the MkIII, has a 6X5GT tube rectifier, because there is no 5v tap, and has no substitution due to it's unique pin-out. A very popular rectifier in the '50s, it is still easily available in US-made NOS form for a reasonable price, and it's bullet-proof. This is also the rectifier used in the new Unibox 10. That leaves the Black Dogs - all solid-state for maximum voltage in a cathode-biased environment.
5. Do Goodsells have a master volume?
Except for the Unibox, yes. We just call it "volume" so people don't generalize what it means to have a "master". (the regular "volume" we call "gain", 'cause that's what it is.) Here's what you need to know about the [master] volume: It is post-phase inverter and completely transparent. It is passive and subtractive, so wide open is unity, or the same as not being there at all. And that's pretty much it.
6. Can I get an effects loop on my Goodsell?
Only if it means you won't buy it any other way. I hate them; they are a weak link.
7. What are your speaker recommendations?
If it's a combo, the speaker it comes with was chosen because that's the most flattering tone for that particular amp, regardless of weight or cost. In most cases, that is a Goodsell RGH, which is made for me by Warehouse Guitar Speakers and is basically a drop-in replacement for a 70th Anniv. G12H. The Unibox gets a Jensen C12Q or a similar WGS. I don't use or like Alnicos in most of my stuff unless it's a Custom 33 and the customer wants to go for a true British vibe, in which case I can stick a couple of Blues in there for an extra charge.
8. Why don't you show color choices on your web site?
A bunch of reasons. First, there's too many - my supplier is mojo musical supply
and there are swatches of all available coverings and grill cloth material. I also have to buy at least 5 of any given type of cabinet at a time to hold the price down - sometimes many more - so I buy them in advance in the most popular colors, which tend to be blue, black, brown, blonde, and green. If you want a color that's not in stock it might add a week or two to the build time while we make it part of a larger cabinet order.. If it is a really unusual color or configuration, and/or can't be made as part of a larger order, a deposit and/or up-charge may apply.
9. Can I place my order directly with you, or do I need to go through a dealer?
There are over a dozen dealers at any given time with Goodsell amps in stock. Check the list on this web site for a dealer near you and visit them in person for a demo if possible. Any dealer on the list will probably be able to take your order over the phone or on-line, but each dealer sets their own shipping, return, and trade-in policies. If you call directly from within a dealer territory, you will be directed to place your order through that dealer, but you can still reach me for any questions specific to the amp you have on order. If you don't live anywhere near a dealer, and none of the dealers on the list have what you're looking for then you are free to contact us directly to place your order. The prices are listed elsewhere on this site, and are the minimum advertised price. If the amp you want doesn't seem to be listed anywhere, just ask about available features/pricing - but keep in mind - we are not Burger King - we pretty much like our amps the way they are. Weird requests make me anxious, so please don't ask me to stray from my basic recipe (ie. channel switching - no way... stereo - OK). I'm a reasonable guy, and so is my typical customer.
10. What are your customer service/warranty policies?
Officially, the warranty is 3 years, all inclusive except for the tubes. I have to have an official warranty policy, because some day I may have to enforce it, but so far, after more than 5 years in business, I've still never charged anyone for service work, no matter if they are the original owner or the 5th owner. I've been known to do certain mods and updates at no charge, at my discretion - if I built an amp 3 years ago, and after 300-400 more units I've figured a better way to do something, I'm going to incorporate that experience into that amp if it ever winds up in my shop for service. Thankfully, the amps are relatively simple and well-made in the first place, so we're never overwhelmed with service work. Even so, taking care of customer's problems is a priority, as the goodwill it creates usually results in referrals, and positive blog posts, etc., and you can't buy a good reputation for cash.
